Wild goose recipes get a bad rap. Goose meat is “often, yet unfairly, maligned,” as my friend Mark Norquist of Modern Carnivore likes to say. Or there’s the joke, “How to properly cook a goose,” which ...

ST. PAUL — The geese wandering back and forth across the pastures at Champoeg Farm probably don’t realize it, but they’re at the forefront of a culinary resurgence. Though the birds remain “very niche ...